Surati Experience - Day 3, Part 3

We walked back to where we left our Auto and on the way, I took this picture:

No boundaries here. A Muslim boy playing a British game in front of a picture of a Hindu deity. I sure hope that the new generation breaks its shackles of hatred, and create the India of tolerance and mutual respect that MK Gandhi envisioned.

We reached the fort, but only after the Indian traffic ensured I inhaled toxins worth 10 cigarettes. The fort now houses various government offices but it was once a formidable fort as its plaque says:

"This strong imposing building was erected in 1540 by Khwaja Jafar appointed Governor of Surat with the title Khudawand Khan by Sultan Mahmud Shah III of Gujarat in order to put a stop to rising power of the Portuguese on the Gujarat coast. The castle was protected on the land side by a ditch 60ft wide and was fortified with many Turkish guns. In the year 1573 A.D., it was captured by Emperor Akbar. Under the Mughals Surat became a port of great importance. It was sacked by Shivaji twice in the year 1664 A.D. and 1670 A.D. but he did not attack the castle. The place continued to be in Mughal possession till 1759 A.D. when it was captured by the English and castle to be occupied by them. In 1962 the small garrison of European and native troops posted at the station was withdrawn and the place has been occupied by public officers."

Unlike many European countries but like many other places of historical places in India, this fort is in serious deterioration.  The entrance of the fort was littered with court peons who had setup kiosks with a type writer to get the complaints of the people written down:

As you enter, if you look up you can see the strong beams to support the structure:

Looking up the narrow corridor as you enter the fort.

Profile shot of the fort.

A massive iron door protected the entrance of the fort. The spikes on the door were placed to prevent using elephants to push open the door. Looking at the condition of the door, I cannot imagine closing this door ever again. Signs of peace?

Despite my love for India, I do not support vandalizing important historical places (even if it is an Indian flag).

The Tapti river next to the fort was one big sewage (like so many rivers that go through cities). So, I did not bother enjoying the view except to take a shot of this girl:

Girl with her luggage walking along the banks of Tapti river.

As we left the fort to check other places, I came across a man lying on the middle of road. You may know that the Indian traffic is a horror to many but imagine yourself lying on a main road with all sorts of traffic weaving through you. He was clearly unaware of his situation. It seemed that no one cared to lift him up. I pondered about helping him and I asked a passerby about whether he knew why he was on the middle of the road. He said, "Drunk, sahib". I did not help him but I find no reason as to why I did not. It would have taken me 5 minutes to pull him to the side of the road and 20 cents to get him some water. What happened to the high-held principles of mine? Perhaps, I was becoming immune to the vices of the society... Scary, indeed.

Before we got back on our Auto-Rickshaw, we walked past this man:

Views like this are all over India and they are more common than public washrooms. While India is a paradise for street photography, I can't help think feeling a certain way about my subjects. How can I not see the burdens of past, the pain of the present, and the anxieties of the future in this man? Yet, even the slightest smile on his face suggests that internal peace requires very few conditions. Such observations are everywhere but perhaps nowhere as evident as in India.